Copenhagen: Frederiksberg Palace, Nyhavn Harbour, The Little Mermaid Statue

Posted: December 5, 2019 in Photography
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Copen-hangin’ with John and Philip in the Danish capital.


God aften København!

Our first meal in Denmark…at a Japanese izakaya.

And reunited with London’s own Philip Mak!

But your dad just calls me Katya.

Tivoli Gardens opened in 1843, is the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world (the other is also in Denmark) and was so beloved by one Walt Disney that it inspired the creation of his very own Disneyland.

It also closed the very week before we arrived so they could set up for Halloween. Next time!

Our adorable Airbnb.

GRØD, in the Vesterbro neighbourhood.

The autumn chia special.

Presented without comment.

Good for Peter.

The ceramic answer to Crap Taxidermy.

We soon located the Frederiksberg Palace, though not – as it turned out – via the entrance.

The palace served as the royal family’s summer residence until the mid-19th century. Since 1869, it has housed the Royal Danish Military Academy.

The palace also affords a commanding view over Frederiksberg Gardens: a romantic landscape garden designed in the English style, and one of the largest and most attractive greenspaces in Copenhagen.

Quite possibly the most aesthetically pleasing public toilet I’ve seen in years.

Spot the duckling.

A kind local explained to us the significance of the Suttetræet: a tree where locals take their children to hang their pacifiers once they’ve outgrown them, in a ritualised rite of passage.

The result, he explained with no small measure of disgust, is this unhygienic, Blair Witch-esque monstrosity.

Unless my translation was wildly off base, I’m pretty sure this was a yoga studio.

Couldn’t resist an impromptu photoshoot in this adorable rhubarb-and-custard-hued launderette.

Plane’arium.

Palads Theatre: subject of many an instagram story.

Quick restyle at the Airbnb after some uncooperative morning weather.

As if in recompense for the morning’s rain, we reached the canal just as sunset was illuminating the varicoloured facades of Nyhavn Harbour.

When you see it.

Nyhavn is a 17th-century waterfront, canal and entertainment district, lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses, bars, cafes and restaurants, that stretches from Kongens Nytorv to the harbour-front just south of the Royal Playhouse.

Turns out: it’s exactly what it sounds like.

Operaen: the Copenhagen Opera House.

Frederik’s Kirke: an 18th-century Lutheran church with the largest dome in Scandinavia.

And finally: the lady I’d been waiting for since the minute we touched down in Denmark.

As fate would have it, this was actually the second time I’d been in close proximity to The Little Mermaid statue; the first having occurred completely unbeknownst to me when Lindsay and I visited the Shanghai Expo in 2010. In honour of the world fair, Denmark sent the actual Little Mermaid statue from Copenhagen to the Shanghai (the first time in 100 years that it had left the city), with the original being replaced in Copenhagen by a video installation of the statue by controversial Beijing artist/activist, Ai Weiwei (known for his criticism of the Communist Party of China and censorship). Knowing precisely none of this, we skipped the Danish Pavilion entirely and so it took until almost a decade later until we were finally face to fin.

The statue was commissioned in 1909 by Carl Jacobsen (son of the founder of Carlsberg beer), who had been fascinated by a ballet about the fairytale in Copenhagen’s Royal Theatre and asked the ballerina, Ellen Price, to model for the statue. The sculptor Edvard Eriksen created the bronze sculpture, which was unveiled in 1913. The statue’s head was modelled after Price, but as the ballerina hadn’t agreed to model nude, the body is that of the sculptor’s very own wife, Eline Eriksen.

By further curious coincidence, I’d coveted this Bobby Abley SS15 Ursula jumper for years then found one in near-mint condition just weeks before we left for Denmark. Meant to be.

No prizes for guessing which one of us is way too excited to be there. 🧜🏻‍♀️

Farvel, Den lille Havfrue. It was such a pleasure to finally be part of your world.

Some perfectly-timed avian intervention.

Tag yourself, I’m Dark Marci.

And, to finish, some perfect cheekbone lighting in the bathrooms of BRUS.

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